Nothing tells me more about a Chinese restaurant than its use of stock.

Stock is central to Chinese cuisine. It��s not only used in soups - just a tablespoon will give stir-fries a real lift.

Chinese stock should be clear and golden in colour. Chefs will use chicken bones and occasionally a few pork bones or muslin-wrapped prawn shells.

The alternative to stock isn��t as pretty, or tasty. A hurried mix of water, monosodium glutamate and dried chicken powder is never a valid replacement - and a good sign that the restaurant you��re eating in isn��t worth a second visit.

Many mainstream recipes for Chinese stock advise you to boil chicken bones with spring onion, ginger and other ingredients. Unless you��re going to use (or freeze) the stock immediately, just stick to boiling bones and water. The fresher the bones, the clearer and better, your stock will be.

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