Hukou Falls
Ever wondered what that picture on the back of the RMB50 note is? The answer is to be found about 25km southwest of Ji'xian County, near the southeastern border of Shanxi. The Kettle Spout Falls (Hukou pubu), is one of the Yellow River's most impressive sights. Here you will see the transformation of a fairly sluggish, wide, siltily brown river, into the raging waterfall that can be heard hissing for kilometers around. The mountains that channel the river just before the falls, are wide and high, but at this section they suddenly narrow, from an original gap of 1,400 meters to 50 meters, squeezing tons of water into a 20 meter gap. The waterfall is not spectacularly high, at only 30 meters, but it is still impressively violent and loud in season. The best time to visit, if you do not mind the numerous stalls and mainly Chinese tourists, is in summer, when the water volume is high due to melted snow and ice from mountains upstream. Visitors here are often asked to carefully watch the Tortoise Stone (Guishi), that is a rock part of the falls which is alleged to move up and down with the water level. How to get there: Hukou Falls lies 150km west of Linfen and can be reached from the Linfen long-distance bus station. The journey should take around 5hrs. You may also get here from Yan'an and Yuncheng for about the same length of time. Taxi is also a viable option for those in groups of three or four (around RMB700 return). Cost: RMB30 entrance fee. Hotels: The only obvious choice is the Hukou Guesthouse, which has fairly reasonable prices and rooms of decent standard.
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